“Surfing is like golf: You’re always battling, and it keeps knocking you down. There are a lot of wipeouts. But when you stay with it and catch that wave, you really taste it. It’s magic.”
“Surfing is like golf: You’re always battling, and it keeps knocking you down. There are a lot of wipeouts. But when you stay with it and catch that wave, you really taste it. It’s magic.”
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