“Taste every time you cook, and take nothing for granted – not even your own palate, for it can change. Mine has... Since doing time on a salt-free diet, I approach a plain baked potato reverently. Maybe I’ve been missing the truth – the nutty, delicate earthiness of a perfect baked potato. Salt only masks it. In a fancy mood, I heighten it with caviar; in a plain mood, I just give it several grinds of fresh black pepper.”