“But more infuriating is the question about to whom I should have been paying dues. It seems like the only ones keeping track are the white guys with tall hats. And how did those guys get into the club? By paying dues to older white guys with even taller hats. As for the thousands of black and brown chefs – dubbed cooks, domestics, servants, boys, and mammies who were kept out of restaurant kitchens or overlooked within them – they were beyond consideration. Their work, like them, was invisible.”
