“The sea is a memory. It is mesmerising. Its beauty is intolerable. What it buries is vaster than what it reveals. Every so often you get a glimpse of what you forget, or you wade in and something snags you, a broken shell or a sea urchin the fishermen missed... No waves speak with the same voice, though they share the same elements and motion, the regular beating of the surf, their rippling heaves.”